{"id":1010,"date":"2014-12-30T14:22:52","date_gmt":"2014-12-30T13:22:52","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.pa3hcm.nl\/?p=1010"},"modified":"2021-01-18T17:12:41","modified_gmt":"2021-01-18T16:12:41","slug":"build-your-own-arduino-morse-keyer","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.pa3hcm.nl\/?p=1010","title":{"rendered":"Getting started with Arduino: morse keyer"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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Close-up of the prototype keyer.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Using a paddle to operate in morse code is very convenient. But paddles don’t create dots and dashes on their own, so you need some electronics, called a “keyer”. You may use the build-in keyer of your radio, but most of them lack of functionality. You may buy a keyer at your local ham store, but these are rather expensive. So why not build your own keyer? It’s fun to do, and you learn new things. The Arduino prototyping board allows you to build the most advanced and personalized keyer that you have in mind! This article gives you a decent start for such a keyer, by implementing the basic functionality and learn a bit about the Arduino platform if you’re not familiar with this board yet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

About the Arduino<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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The Arduino prototype board, this is the “Uno” version. Throughout the years several versions have been released, but all are code and pin compatible.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

The Arduino is one of the easiest prototyping platforms available nowadays. You can easily attach buttons, sensors, lights, displays, relays and motors and control them all with a simple program. You write the program using the Arduino IDE software<\/a> (available for Linux, Windows and Mac) and transfer it to your Arduino board using a USB-cable. Arduino boards are sold at most electronics shops and will cost about 20-25 euros \/ 25-30 USD. You may consider buying a starter kit, containing an Arduino board, a breadboard, and handful of parts (LED’s, switches, sensors, motor, servo, etc), wires, and  a guide learning you the basics. Visit the Arduino website<\/a> for more information.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

About paddles<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Paddles come in different shapes and sizes. The keyer discussed in this article is meant for “twin paddles” or “iambic paddles”. Such a paddle has 2 levers, one for sending dots and one for the dashes. The “iambic” means that, when squeezing both levers, the keyer will translate this to a repetitive series of dot-dash-dot-dash-dot-dash-etc…<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Two examples of a paddle: the high-end Begali “Pearl” and the more common Bencher “BY-1”.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Actually, if you look at your paddle, it’s just a double switch. Ok, it’s probably the most expensive and specialized switch in your home, but still it’s a switch. Each contact is shortened to a common contact, normally connected to “ground”. The other ends of the switches are connected to the “dot” and “dash” inputs of your keyer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The keyer hardware<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

It’s time to build the circuit. I suggest that you first build your prototype on a breadboard, at least I did for this article.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The complete circuit, less then 10 components!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The main component of the keyer is (of course) the Arduino board, and we will create the following inputs and outputs:<\/p>\n\n\n\n